28 - 30 June 2006...Welcome to Bogota

Lynne says...

Bogata completely took me by surprise. I had no idea what to expect from the capital of a country I knew nothing about - I imagined Colombia to be a crime ridden, dangerous country where drugs and violence are the order of the day and I would almost certainly be kidnapped if I ventured out after dark. How wrong could I have been.

The airport was bright and modern and we were whisked away in a price controlled taxi to the centre of the city. By the time we checked into our hostel it was already late in the afternoon. We were both tired and so decided to stay in and explore the city the following day. I was still slightly nervous about wandering around this infamous capital after dark.

We only had one full day in Bogota so we were determined to make the most of it. The day got off to the best possible start when I checked my email. Steve and Lindsey are engaged! I burst into tears when I read my little bro's email even though I had guessed it was on the cards (it was fairly obvious to everyone who knows them). I am so happy for the both of them and can´t wait to give them both a huge hug.

After such great news I found it hard to concentrate on anything for a while. We headed off for breakfast in a retro style diner called Florida. No menus, formica tables and a great atmosphere. We were surrounded by well-dressed local enjoying a leisurely Sunday breakfast. Outside the main street had been cordoned off to allow people with two wheels to take over. Athletic lycra-clad enthusiasts on professional looking bikes mingled with children on tricycles and grandparents on old fashioned contraptions with baskets at the front. It was great to see such a positive gesture. Can you imagine it happening in London on a Sunday?

We stumbled upon a local flea market and spent a couple of hours rummaging through the brick-a-brack. Some of the larger items were amazing - gramophone players, beautiful furniture and pieces of art deco. Many of the items would have been prohibitively expensive in the UK. The bargains we liked the most were simply too heavy to transport back home so we settled on a rusty old licence plate and a pair of wooden cobblers shoes.

After coffee and a chocolate brownie in a lovely cafe we went to the second museum of our trip - The Museum of Gold. All Museums are free on the last Sunday of the month so we waited in a queue for a while alongside the usual bored children and sulky teenagers. I'm not a huge fan of museums as I generally lose interest after around an hour but this one was worth the wait. It houses the biggest collection of gold artefacts in the world and was very well presented.

During the afternoon we stumbled upon Bogota´s Gay Pride Parade. In such a conservative, Catholic country it was a surprise to see such a huge, colourful and extravagent display. Thousands of people lined the streets to watch the outrageous floats drive by. The brightly coloured vehicles were jam packed with semi naked men, women and transvestites wearing feathers and sequined outfits and waving the multi coloured flag of the Gay Pride movement.

There was also a very heavy military presence. Armour clad soldiers in khaki uniforms clutched huge sub machine guns or truncheons and watched the display with serious faces - no doubt partly to prove their masculinity to their comrades. Nobody seemed to mind them and they simply kept their distance at the same time as making their presence felt. As with most capital cities, Bogota is much more liberal as far as sexuality is concerned and it was great to see.

We stopped for a delicious slice of pizza before catching a taxi to Santa Rosa, an area around fifteen minutes drive away from the centre of town. Darkness was falling so we both thought it would be safer than walking. Modern office blocks, colonial buildings and designer shops indicated the wealth and prosperity of this particular barrio.

Several bars and restaurants were clustered around a few pedestrianised streets. We sat outside and ordered beer and snacks. In a city that is without doubt dangerous at night we found ourselves in a safe, confined enclosure. Security men with guns maintained a discreet distance but were a constant reminder that after hours the streets of Bogota are not the safest of places to be. Whilst sipping our beers we watched as well dressed couples and families with young children socialised with friends.

Bogata has been a complete revelation to me. It was nothing like I had expected. What surprises will the rest of Colombia hold for us I wondered?